It was 11:55 a.m. on a Saturday and I approached a line of bespectacled, bearded brunchers about 15 people deep on the corner of Lorimer and Conselyea in central Williamsburg. The host at The Brooklyn Star warned us that our party must all be at the establishment at promptly noon to claim our reservation, but I didn’t realize the opening door was so cut throat.
The front doors were flung open at 12 p.m. on the dot and the growing line swarmed inside to fill the dining room tables on a first come, first served basis. Within five minutes, every seat was filled and those unlucky enough at the back of the line were faced with a one-hour wait at the minimum. You are allowed to make a reservation at the trendy New American restaurant for a party of six or more, but must go on a wait list if your party isn’t all present at the noon seating. New York traffic and subway delays happen so we were forced to suck up the wait when the last of our party arrived at 12:15.
I was joined by my girlfriends Meghan, Molly, Sondra, and Brittany and we saddled up to the hightop tables in the bar area at the front of the eatery to wait it out. Interestingly, they do not begin serving food in the bar area until 1 p.m., and to be fair, the bartenders and servers were completely transparent about this stipulation. I suspect this is to mitigate the rush in the kitchen at noon from the entire dining room ordering at once.
Knowing we had an hour to kill and an out of town friend to entertain, we went straight for the $30 mimosa pitchers. Our impeccably scruffy server promptly brought over a stack of cups and two larger plastic pitchers filled with orange juice and bubbly. We appreciated that the mimosas didn’t seem watered down, which is refreshing after many weak mimosas carafes in the past.
The Brooklyn Star has an impressive assortment of brunch cocktails aside from the traditional mimosas and Marys such Gordon’s Breakfast with gin, cucumber, lime, and hot sauce or the Bloody Bull, a Bloody with beef broth and pickled beans. Brittany, our visiting Chicagoan, wanted some variety outside of our mimosa pitchers and ordered a Bourbon Bonbon for us all to share. This tasty concoction contains bourbon, iced espresso, and condensed milk—perfect for a morning jolt of energy. The condensed milk added a refreshing creaminess to the cocktail, but you could definitely taste the bourbon, in a good way.
When the clock struck one, we opted to stay at our high top table rather than move into the main dining room. We were starving at this point and sufficiently buzzed from the mimosa pitchers so we quickly opted for the mac and cheese to share. This dish was satisfyingly cheesy and we loved the crispy top crust, but the bacon was lost on me. It was rather sparse, surprising for a Southern-style establishment famous for its comfort food and meat.
Everything on the menu sounded absolutely mouthwatering and it was difficult to narrow down to our entrees. I love meatloaf, but rarely order it, and for some reason the hot meatloaf sandwich was calling my name. The monstrous sandwich was served with a thick slab of homemade meatloaf topped with an aioli and a fried egg with a whimsical smiley face drizzled in hot sauce. The meatloaf was well seasoned and flavorful. The combination with the egg reminded me of steak and eggs, which was a welcome comparison. I ate the sandwich open-faced because the second slice of white bread was too much for my stomach.
Meghan opted for the biscuits and sausage gravy with scrambled eggs. The biscuits were perfectly fluffy and flaky, but she found the layer of melted cheese unnecessary. Meghan smartly ordered the thick sausage gravy on the side so she could avoid over-drowned biscuits. The scrambled eggs were cooked well and she had no complaints.
Molly ordered the Masa Cakes, which contained house made chorizo, black beans, and poached eggs. Molly loves a good poached egg and gave these a thumbs up. She enjoyed the flavors, but remarked that it quickly turned into a bowl of mush, similar to chilaquiles. It tasted good, but didn’t end up looking too appetizing.
If you recall from my previous brunch reviews, Sondra is the resident picky eater so we were so proud of her when she departed from her typical order of plain eggs, cheese, and bacon for the ham steak entrée. No substitutions or modifications are allowed at The Brooklyn Star so she stuck with the on-menu protein, mashed potatoes, and fried eggs. To our delight, she enjoyed every bite! This dish was the epitome of home cooking and the complex red eye gravy tied it all together.
Brittany has a bit of a brunch sweet tooth and gravitated towards the chicken and waffles, served with apple butter and fresh grapefruit. She complimented the fluffy, warm waffles, but noted that she’s had more succulent fried chicken. The grapefruit was a refreshing, light side to balance out the heavy main portion. Overall, she thought the dish was good, but not the best chicken and waffles she’s ever had.
A jaw droppingly large cinnamon roll arrived at our table around the conclusion of our meal as “dessert.” We all mustered up the last bit of our appetite and savored a few bites of the sticky sweet treat. This delicious dish ended our meal on a high note and was worth every calorie.
The Bitches say: B. A dreamy brunch menu filled with decadent comfort food, a relaxed ambiance, and friendly service, although we don’t necessarily think it warrants the frantic scramble for a table right at 12 p.m.
The Brooklyn Star
593 Lorimer St.
The Brooklyn Star is open for brunch on Saturdays and Sundays from noon sharp until 4 p.m.