Since dating someone living in Brooklyn, I’ve definitely spent my fair share on time on the other side of the bridge. I’ve amped up my number of Williamsburg brunch reviews, but lately my whole friend group has been really hot on Greenpoint.
Spritzenhaus has replaced Radegast as our beer garden of choice and Paulie Gee’s tops any pizza I’ve had in Williamsburg to date. More and more delicious restaurants and fun bar concepts are migrating to Greenpoint, and I like it.
Sauvage is a relatively recent addition to the neighborhood and is the sister restaurant to Maison Premiere, the awesome oysters and absinthe joint in the Burg. Both restaurants share a nostalgic nod to the past in the decor, from everything to the vintage floor tiles to the servers’ jaunty caps and suspenders. However, touches like marble accents and bright pops of color give Sauvage a modern, curated feel.
I was joined by my friends Molly and Meghan, as well as Jillian, in from Boston for the weekend. We ordered a round of iced coffees to start and I was pleased that almond milk was offered, earning Sauvage automatic points in my book.
We forwent the traditional brunch cocktails, opting for some white wine and beer to get the day started.
Sauvage has plenty of options on its brunch menu ranging with classics like French toast, Benedicts, and steak & eggs. What really caught our eye was inventive fare like carrot ricotta toast, spelt savory pancakes, and socca, which was explained as a cross between an omelette and a crepe made out of chickpeas.
While we debated between equally delicious-sounding items and scheming who would split entrees, we nibbled on the monkey bread to start. We initially asked for two orders to split between our group, but we were appeased with a tosca pastry on the house when our server apologetically informed us that there was only one order of monkey bread remaining.
The pastries were as delicious as they were photogenic. The monkey bread was flaky and sticky sweet, while the surprise order of tosca was perfectly nutty and chewy. Both were perfect to wash down with our cold brews.
Jillian had a strong order choice and opted for the Madam Malakoff, Sauvage’s answer to the Croque Monsieur. She deemed that the thick slices of bread stuffed with Tamworth aged ham and béchamel, topped with runny fried eggs, was the perfect cure for a long night out in New York City. This dish was so rich that she only made it half way through.
To be honest, we were all excited that Jillian ordered off the sandwich menu because we all wanted to scavenge on her French fries. That’s what friends are for right?
Poached eggs and raw fish are Molly’s top brunch buzzwords so I wasn’t surprised that she ordered the Poached Egg Foccacia. Sauvage’s take on an eggs Benedict put the eggs on toasted Focaccia bread topped with smoked egg caviar. She loved the smoky, savory notes brought to the dish by the caviar, but critiqued that the Hollandaise was served with a heavy hand. The thick sauce overpowered the rest of the ingredients and she wished she had requested the sauce on the side.
Meghan went the healthy route with the roast chicken salad, but went off-menu and added avocado. She was presented with a generous-sized salad containing plenty of fresh veggies, which hit the spot. Similarly to Molly, she found her salad overdressed, which was off-putting. The rest of us helped her out, picking at the juicy chicken and leftover avocado.
I was torn between the avocado toast and the mushroom toast, but our server nudged me towards the latter. Mushrooms are my favorite vegetable after all. This turned out to be one of the most elevated and interesting toasts I’ve ever had — the crispy bread was stacked high with scrambled eggs, wild mushrooms, and bonito flakes.
When heated, bonito flakes, or dried, fermented, and smoked skipjack tuna moves around on the plate as if it is dancing or wiggling about. This was a delightful touch to an already satisfying dish.
We concluded brunch satisfied and ready to start our day. Pro tip, while you’re in the neighborhood, head a few blocks to Torst, a beautiful craft beer bar, for some post-brunch libations.
The Bitches say: B+. Interesting, elevated brunch fare in the heart of Greenpoint from the Maison Premiere team. Don’t skip the mushroom toast or pastry selection.
Sauvage is open for brunch on Saturdays and Sundays from 8 a.m. until 4 p.m. (718) 486-6816