On Sunday I spent the wee hours of my morning doing erratic yoga moves in the gorgeous Highline Hotel for the NYFW FFF Series, a fitness collaboration for a great charity, Girls on the Run. Despite being out-yogied and out-dressed by the pre-teen participants, I felt like a million bucks when we finished and basked in the zen of my fellow Bitches over Dimes’ chia pudding and free braids from Glam & Go.
I had to take advantage of the dreamy location and break in temperatures, so I spent an hour reading in the outdoor patio before meeting Paul for a stroll on the Highline. By the time we finished all of this healthy business, I was extremely ready for a Sunday brunch.
We chose Cookshop out of convenience and I was pleased to branch out for the day in Chelsea. It was difficult not to notice the number of toddler brunchers and strollers at the restaurant, which tells me Cookshop is family friendly, though I don’t know from personal experience.
We had specifically requested outdoor seats and I was disappointed when our names were called after an hour and we were ushered to the cramped seats in the waiting area of the restaurant. We were more hungry than picky so I kept my mouth shut, but I wasn’t pleased to be removed from both the sunshine and the atmosphere of the main dining room.
Our friendly waiter charmed me back into happiness and we started our brunch quickly with ricotta beignets served over a raspberry sauce and lattes. I was expecting the fresh ricotta to be more prominent in the beignets, but it was hard to tell that it was incorporated in the dough. I enjoyed nibbling on one, but I wouldn’t recommend this starter to friends.
We also shared a maple bacon cinnamon roll, which had bits of bacon dispersed among a light sweet frosting. I’m a big fan of the sweet/savory combo and we thought this pastry was really well done.
After undoing all of the health of my morning, I avoided the heavy carb dishes and we stuck to the eggs. I ordered the roasted broccoli rabe and cheddar scramble cooked with caramelized onions, creme fraiche, and chives and served on a buttermilk biscuit. This was basically an egg sandwich with five times the normal egg portion, and it was hearty and well cooked. Paul thought it had too much going on, but I liked the combination.
Paul ordered the fried egg sandwich with house-made Italian sausage and aged Cheddar cheese melted onto a Brioche bun. The sandwich was served with siracha-esque seasoned potato hash and served with a side of jalapeno-cabbage slaw. The sausage was very thick and overpowered the egg component of the sandwich, but if you’re a meatlover this would appeal to you. This egg sandwich wasn’t my favorite, but the potato hash was awesome.
Overall, I wasn’t blown away with Cookshop. I find that it’s a go-to for many of my peers and I didn’t totally understand the hype. The menu looks very appealing, but the brunch dishes we tried didn’t taste as good as they sounded on paper. The space was large and lacked the character of some of my other favorites.
The Bitches say: B-. Cookshop is certainly popular and bustling with energy, but the hour + wait didn’t match the food delivered. The brunch is solid but unremarkable, however its prime location with close proximity to the Highline for post-brunch walks makes it an ideal choice for a fun morning in Chelsea.
156 10th Ave
(212) 924 – 4440
Cookshop serves brunch on Saturdays and Sundays from 10:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.