Update: According to Yelp, this location has closed.
I’m a Floridian. And while you don’t often visit the beach when you actually live in the Sunshine State, you sure as hell miss it when you’re away from home.
Rehoboth is my northeast holdover until I fly south every once in a while. There’s just something quaint and nostalgic about the little town. Its boardwalk is lined with colorful hotels and candy shops. People fly kites (kites!) and take family portraits sticking their heads through wooden cutouts. It’s worth it for a day trip, or a weekend trip, or longer.
But it’s a haul to get there: almost a three hour drive, and most usually in traffic. A few weeks ago, on my way to the Delaware shore, I stopped at a friend’s house in Denton for the night, which cut the trip in half. In the morning, I only had to grab brunch and zip another 50 miles to the beach. Perfect.
My friend’s next-to-the-highway brunch recommendation? Cindy’s Country Store, which sounds more like a roadside stop clad with roosters than what it actually is: a bakery, a convenience and craft store with great taste (selling beautiful deli items, wine, fresh bread, pies, and baked goods made from scratch), and a restaurant serving delicious brunch plates.
You order your dishes at the counter and the super friendly (I mean, really friendly) staff cooks them fresh. Our big, beach-bound group decided to sit in the dining room in the back to wait on our gigantic order. While we were there, the staff brought us a huge platter of fresh watermelon slices complimentary, which was lovely. They also brought the entire coffee carafe back to us, which was necessary.
There were lots of hot breakfast dishes to choose from, but the winner all around was the donut French toast. It’s a donut, sliced in half, and cooked like our favorite type of toast. It turns it into a buttery, greasy biscuits of sorts. Clearly the most unhealthy thing on the menu, and clearly the most delicious. You can get sausage or bacon on the side.
I went for the breakfast sandwich, which was scrambled eggs, sausage, cheese and bacon in a grilled wrap. It was like a great breakfast burrito but crispy. The eggs Benedict were perched on homemade biscuits—the best buttery biscuits I’ve had in a good while—with lots of ham and hollandaise. It was those biscuits, though, that made that Benny so grand.
You could also order breakfast medleys, with eggs cooked any way, bacon, sausage, and potatoes. In fact, you could probably ask Cindy and her staff for any sort of brunch dish of your heart’s desire. They were so accommodating, and the food was so good.
It was a pleasant surprise to stumble upon such a treasure in the Eastern Shore—on the side of a highway, no less. Next time you’re en route to Delaware Beaches, pass up the Wawa, make a pit stop in Denton, and go see Cindy. You can get all your beach beverages after brunch, too!
The Bitches say: A. The perfect roadside brunch stop on the way to the beach. Great, fresh, home-cooked food, and a lovely, accommodating staff.
Cindy’s Country Store
10518 Greensboro Road
Denton, MD 21629