We all love summer, especially when it’s just beginning. But by the time you’re in the thick of it, especially in this radiating concrete jungle, you start to despise the extreme heat and everything that comes with it.
That’s why, when the sun is at its most oppressive on the weekends, and when you don’t have a pool or beach to zip to, it’s best to brunch indoors where the air conditioning is at full blast along with the music.
Hear it from me: patio brunches be damned come July or August. I need an ice cold Bloody Mary and I would prefer it to stay cold by being placed on a table in the cool, shaded indoors.
So when it gets too hot to handle Manhattan patios or rooftops, I recommend heading to The Anthony. It’s a dark, cool restaurant with dim lighting and an air conditioner that sings my name.
At night, The Anthony turns into a lively bar and restaurant, complete with red leather booths and graffiti-laden walls. But during the daylight hours, the lights remain low and chef Max Renny starts cracking eggs.
The brunch menu offers pleasant variations on the classics, and the dishes were surprisingly unique. This under-the-radar Greenwich Village spot surprised me with its creative bistro fare–I felt like each dish had a bit of a story to tell. But first, the cocktails.
The Bloody Mary was small but ice cold and spicy. We ventured further into Anthony Nelson’s cocktail menu and tried Suzy’s Secret. Made with vodka, muddled raspberries, cucumber, and champagne, it was a bit too sweet for my brunch taste. But that’s just me—Suzy looked on from her mural on the wall with disgust.
The burrata was perfect and came with a braised radicchio. It was drizzled with aged balsamic and topped with basil. On the side were perfectly crusted baguette slices and some sliced tomatoes. It was a refreshing and light way to start.
We settled into our dark booth, happy as clams with our cocktails and cool air. Out came the mac ‘n’ cheese, which was one of the best I’ve had for brunch. Served in a skillet, it came with chicharrones, crispy potatoes, and a fried egg on top. Decadent and delicious.
The French toast was also on point. Covered in powdered sugar and a raspberry compote, it wasn’t too large to be overwhelming, but definitely satisfied our sweet tooth.
The lobster Benedict came with large chunks of lobster and was served on cheddar biscuits, which were flaky and rich. The hollandaise sauce was sparse, but intentional: a high Old Bay quotient delivered a nice kick. Too much would have been overwhelming.
All of the dishes were truly tasty and unique, but we were stuffed. This is definitely comfort food. Comfort food in a dark, cool cave. Perfect for summer brunch escapes.
The Bitches say: B+. Creative comfort fare in a cool, dark bar setting.
183 Bleecker St.
New York, NY 10012
The Anthony serves brunch on Saturdays and Sundays.