David Burke Kitchen Brunch

David Burke Kitchen, located in the chic Jane Hotel, is one of New York’s numerous farm-to-table, high-end restaurants by a well-known chef. In this case, its namesake.

I snagged the recommendation from a list of Refinery 29’s Best New York brunch spots and made a rezzie. The restaurant is chic yet comfortable, located on the basement floor of the hotel, but with plenty of natural light flooding in.

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The service—from the super accommodating and friendly hosts to the chipper and helpful waiter—was perfect. Helpful without being obtrusive. Plenty of points.

The brunch began on a high note when I discovered they serve popovers en lieu of bread. Popovers—a light, eggy and buttery hollow roll made in a muffin tin— are a Christmas tradition in my family. However, my father only makes them on Christmas. Thanks to David Burke, it was only a few weeks before I could nosh on them again. But, of course, they weren’t nearly as good as the ones Daddy makes. The butter was served on pink rock salt, a unique touch.

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David Burke Kitchen offers a two-course prix fixe brunch for $29, allowing you to pick either an appetizer-and-entrée or entrée-and-dessert. The waiter pronounced “prix fixe” incorrectly but he was quick with the coffee and aqua and kinda cute, so, whatever.

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You can also order off the restaurant’s thorough brunch menu a la carte, but why would you?

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Lindsey had the simple salad for her appetizer, done with fennel, red onion, and a mustard vinaigrette.

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My appetizer was by far and away the most unique dish on the menu at David Burke Kitchen, or at any brunch I’ve had in awhile, for that matter. The pretzel crab cake. But, it wasn’t a crab cake done with pretzel crumbs, but rather a crab cake in an rectangular shape, sandwiched between long skinny pretzels.

It was tied with edible strings, of the leafy varietal, which was a nice touch. The plate was dotted with tartar sauce and red pepper marmalade. The tartar sauce was richer and creamier than normal tartar sauce, more reminiscent of a chipotle mayonnaise.

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For her main course, Lindsey chose the organic egg lobster scramble, done with egg whites instead of regular eggs. There’s an option of veggies or chorizo. And, because she’s a good bestie, she selected veggies so I could have some.

The dish was presented in a unique way, with the egg scramble inside an ostrich egg, which excited Lindsey, a giddy culinary student she’d been eyeing the ostrich eggs at the Union Square Market earlier that morning. The ostrich egg was perched atop a plate of coarse salt. “They really like salt here,” Lindsey remarked.

The lobster scramble was filled with fresh veggies and had a nice Tarragon taste to it that went well with the lobster.

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For my main course, I selected the mascarpone and berry French toast, which the waiter recommended over the pancakes. Boy, was he right. The square blocks of French toast were crispy on the outside, but, on the inside eggy, milky and moist. Stacked one atop the other with mascarpone sandwiched in between, the French toasted was presented nicely and tasted heavenly, and the plate sprinkled with fresh berries. Bravo.

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We were joined by a handsome gentleman who opted for the Grand Slam (oddly the same name as a Denny’s dish). The Grand Slam was a plate of waffles, bacon, sausage, two eggs Sunnyside up, and topped with grilled pineapple, a nice touch.

A sports fanatic, the Grand Slam certainly wasn’t a home run for this sports fanatic. The hungry man polished off our dishes rather than eating the rest of his waffles. “I love Belgian waffles. But these ones were too dense and not that great,” he said at the time.

The Bitches say: A-. Some dishes—like the French toast and crab cake pretzel—were remarkable, while others were mediocre.

David Burke Kitchen serves brunch Saturdays and Sundays.

David Burke Kitchen
The James Hotel
23 Grand Street
(SoHo)
New York, NY
(212) 201-9119

David Burke Kitchen on Urbanspoon

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